Ljubljana

Krompir. No kidding: Potatoes – that is “grumbeere” in the Palatinate dialect – are called krompir in Slovenian. According to Wikipedia, this word really does come from Palatinate dialect; the online encyclopaedia does not, however, cast any light on how it got here. At any rate, it’s nice to notice the link. While we’re at it, krompir is not the only term off the menu you’ll have no trouble understanding if you speak German. Kremsnite (“kremschnitte”) is another example. This rich creamy atrocity was presumably left here by the Austrians, along with the strudelj, or “strudel.” After all, the Habsburgs ruled over this region for 600 years. Other words look weird, but you’ll understand instantly if you speak them out loud.

Take njoki, for instance. If only the Italians would adopt this orthography! No one across the Alps would embarrass themselves by saying “g-naw-cheez.” Here in Slovenia, njoki reach the size of “knödel,” German dumplings – the consistency is pretty much the same from the start. And no matter how much “y” the Italians mumble into the word, “gnocchi” does indeed come from the German “knödel.” But let’s get back to krompir, potatoes in their pre-dumpling state. Slovenians are also familiar with the classic combination in Palatinate cuisine, of krompir, sauerkraut and sausages – but they do something different with it. They add a pinch of Balkan – fava beans – and concoct a wicked stew called jota. Not a dish for gourmets, but a hearty no-nonsense meal. It’s served with “rizling” – just like “dehääm”: back home.