Dortmund

On Sunday, it seemed I was the only person at Signal Iduna Park who was not identifiable as a fan of the BVB or of Hoffenheim. For the first time in my life, I saw a German Football League match in the city famous for its football.

A Stranger and Dortmund’s Pride and Joy Dortmund. On Sunday, it seemed I was the only person at Signal Iduna Park who was not identifiable as a fan of the BVB or of Hoffenheim. For the first time in my life, I saw a German Football League match in the city famous for its football. Signal Iduna Park is double the size of My Dinh National Stadium in Hanoi and full to bursting with 80,270 people, the overwhelming majority of whom are glowing black and yellow. Only a small number with fewer than 1,000 seats in the northeastern section of the stadium are glowing green. I am exceedingly surprised by the impressive scene: the most enthusiastic BVB fans are the 20,000 on the south grandstand, equipped with countless scarves and flags. Signal Iduna Park is nothing for the fainthearted – I feel the pressure of the fans like a twelfth player.

Reporters appear to be popular in the stadium: I am seated in one of the best places in block 48 with the journalists, whose workstations are fully equipped with tables and Internet access. At the press conference the reporters are promptly supplied with beverages, snacks, information about the team and statistics.

Interim melancholia

In the ninth minute, Demba Ba light-heartedly scores a goal and puts 1899 Hoffenheim in the lead with 1:0. It’s as if the entire black and yellow wall were anesthetized. Only the tiny green section of the stadium is awake and cheering. Then the BVB misses many goals, especially with the missed penalty in the first halftime. My counterpart, who has observed the BVB for many years, says melancholically, “Today they’re not at all as snappy as they usually are. Maybe the many international matches weakened the team...”

Completely unexpectedly in the final minute of the match, something magical happens: Antonia da Silva of the BVB shoots a goal. All of Signal Iduna Park is overwhelmed with joy; almost 80,000 people stand up as one and cheer so loudly that their hearts must be bursting out of their chests. Only the tiny gathering of green fans is completely still in the midst of a yellow and black ocean. A Dortmund journalist jumps up, hugs his wife, and gives me his hand... In the surprise coup, the BVB at least briefly defends its table lead.

Peaceful ending

When the match is over, I am surprised at how quickly the 80,000 people leave the stadium. The streets are quiet, there is no traffic jam. When I arrive at the main railway station, I see fans and police, all peaceful. The fans are just drinking beer and cheering cordially. Nonetheless it is the first time that I’ve seen so many police in the station.

After witnessing this dramatic match I understand why the BVB is the pride of Dortmund.