Leipzig

LVZ guest journalist tries every variety of the German side dish.

I was talking with three colleagues over dinner about a topic that I find fascinating: potatoes. I’ve been in Leipzig for awhile now and during this brief time, I have eaten more potatoes than I ever had in my life previously. If I’m not mistaken, only one dish of Thai cuisine is made with potatoes and that is Massaman Curry. Admittedly, it is not originally Thai food, but has been adapted from Indian cuisine.

By now, the German side dish has become a challenge. I firmly intend to only eat potato dishes or side dishes that I have not yet tried. So far, I have had potato pancakes, fried potatoes, potato dumplings, potato salad, potato soup and croquettes. As soon as a meal is set before me with potatoes I admire it like a work of art, for every cook prepares the same potato dish in their own way. The ingredients, the manner of preparation and finally the arrangement are all the finer distinctions that invite one to try the dish.

I asked my colleagues why there are so many different potato dishes and side dishes. In Asia, the people mainly eat rice. Yet in Thailand, for instance, there are no more than three main ways of serving rice, namely normal rice, sticky rice and rice soup. Of course, some dishes like fried rice or desserts such as sticky rice in bamboo would count as well, but in my opinion, they don’t really belong because they are not main dishes. One of my colleagues explained to me that in earlier days the Germans did not have meat every day. Usually there was only meat on Sunday at midday or the evening because Sunday was a special day. For many, potatoes were the main dish. That people would create so many culinary variations from what they have to eat every day seems natural to him.

According to the London Times issue dated 3 October 1885, potatoes were first introduced to Germany in 1581 via Saxony. These potatoes came from Italy. Potato farming began in earnest in Leipzig from 1647, however for the first 200 years potatoes were not grown as food for people, but as livestock feed. It was not until the 17th century that potatoes were used as human food. In 1888 23 million tonnes of potatoes were harvested in Germany alone. The crop area grew steadily. The largest yield here was once 33 million tonnes per year. Potato growing is now decreasing with culinary globalization. At present potato production in Germany is twelve million tonnes per year. In spite of this drop, Germany continues to be among the world’s most important growing regions and now holds seventh place among the potato producers.

Since Leipzig was one of the first potato farming locations on German soil, it would be surprising if the people of Leipzig had not produced any potato specialities. And I finally had the opportunity to try a Leipzig potato speciality. I am speaking of Leipziger Allerlei mit Macaire-Kartoffeln. Macaire potatoes are dough made of mashed potatoes boiled in their skins, flour and certain spices. This dough is shaped into a patty and fried so that it is only crispy on the outside. Therefore, upon biting into one, one feels the crispy outer layer and the soft inner layer at the same time. The potato speciality is served as a side dish with Leipziger Allerlei, which consists of baked crayfish, mushrooms, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower and morels.

Compared with all of the other potato dishes I’ve tested Macaire potatoes are doubtlessly at the top of the list of my personal favourites.