Stuttgart

Stuttgart, 23.5.2011: Stuttgart, the little, green city without traffic

 © Sukhada Tatke in Stuttgart © Foto: Stuttgarter Nachrichten Sonntag or Sunday seems to be an excuse for everything that does not happen in this city. If it’s so quiet that one is tempted to whisper here, blame it on Sunday. If the roads are empty and people few at a peak hour in the evening, you know it is Sunday. Perhaps that is why, the coldest day in six weeks chose to make its presence felt on Sunday, the day I landed in this city.

Coming from the city that never sleeps into another whose language I don’t understand, my anxiety about the trip was probably justified. Although I was warned that Stuttgart would be way quieter (sometimes boring) than anything I had seen before, nothing prepared me enough to brave the silence on the quiet, pedestrian-less streets.

In fact, I got a glimpse of what to expect at the airport itself. I was surprised that I could size up the entire length and breadth of the airport just by taking a 360 degree turn from where I stood. And it was here that I also got a glimpse of what to expect from people. Not knowing which way to proceed and struggling to get a trolley out, I was greeted by a pleasant woman who offered me a euro to unlock the trolley.

Amid all the nervousness and crowd (if that is what i can call it), Anja’s familiar face emerged and reassured me that the stay here would be worthwhile. On our drive from the airport, I was struck by the vast stretch of trees and the sidewalks almost empty. The right side drive made me a little uneasy where i got the feeling that the cars coming from the front would ram into us. There are hardly any cars on the road though. It seemed to me that Stuttgart's 600,000 inhabitants are indoors on a cosy Sunday morning.

Soon, we reach the Haupstratter Strasse, " one of the busiest streets" Anja points out. I hardly see any cars on the streets or people and I unsuccessfully try not to let out a laugh. "Oh, but it's a Sunday," I learn to say by now.

By the evening, well fed on Doner, Pretzel and happy after having a conversation in Hindi with an Afghani man selling me a prepaid calling card, i realise that Stuttgart is going to make me feel special. So many myths are busted within days of being here. I realise immediately that there is a lot more to Stuttgart than Mercedes and Benz, lot more to Germany than merely its glory past. The vast open spaces, cycling tracks and pedestrian walks are hardly any proof of being in an industrialised city.

This little green town which equals in size and population to just a small part of my city has a charm of its own. It is hell bent on making me and my trip special. People want to shake my hand all the time. I ask for water and they give me soda. I press a button on the signal and it turns green immediately. While I cross, the traffic stops just for me! If this is not Suttgart’s attempt at making me feel special, what is?

It is usually cold outside but people's warmth towards me makes me feel at home. German words are hard to remember and harder to pronounce but I let gestures and smiles do the talking to me. As the days pass I get being told that the next day would be warmer, more pleasant. And I feel the same as the familiarity grows of the city grows on me. Even when there are very few cars on the road, I find myself saying “oh there’s a traffic jam today. And it’s not Sunday”.

Sukhada Tatke
published on May 23 2011 in Stuttgarter Nachrichten.

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